On the eastern edge of the Peak District lies a great outcrop of rocks, called Carl Wark. Who was Carl, and what even is a wark? Known as ‘the Devil’s fort’ in Old Norse, it seems that even 1,000 years ago, Danish settlers thought there was something spooky about this place: possibly inhabited for thousands of years before that. What were they up to there, out in the middle of the unforgiving moorscape?
That’s the thought that persuaded an unlikely band of hungover companions to join us on a refreshing Sunday adventure, with plenty to see along the way.
BEFORE YOU GO
Time: 2-3 hours
Terrain: Mostly loose paths. Prepare for boulder clambering, boggy patches, and an optional stream crossing
Rest points: There was a good ice cream van in the car park when I went in August. Picnic at Carl Wark or nearby Higger Tor. Nearby Hathersage has lots of places to eat and drink
How to get there: Park at Surprise View car park (£3.50 for 4 hours, cash or card) or catch a 30min bus from Sheffield to Surprise View (there are a few I believe)
Best time to go: Late summer, when the heather blooms into a spectacular ocean of pink and purple
Directions: Here’s a route from Hill Explorer, with a map at the bottom of the page. I went the reverse route from these directions, but either way is fine as long as you follow the map route.
From the car park, you can make a start up the hill through some very nice silver birch woodland. Carry on up the hill, winding your way around rocks and boulders, and soon enough you will spot Mother Cap in the distance: a curious and majestic boulder that has a bit of a Pride Rock feel to it. Make your way in that direction.
BONUS: On the way up to Mother Cap, look out for a big rock on your left that looks very much like a happy tortoise. You’ll know when you see it. How did a big stone tortoise get out here anyway?
Once you’ve arrived at Mother Cap and had a good look at it (and possibly, like me, tried and failed to climb it) then carry on along the path. You are now aiming for Higger Tor: a large outcrop of rocks. You’ll descend onto a lower section of the moor: follow this path all the way to the tor.
You’ll likely have spotted at least a few millstones dotting the moor by now: giant stone wheels with holes in them. There are hundreds of them dotted all over the moor: many of them weighing over two tons. They were fashioned hundreds of years ago from gritstone quarried from this area: stonemasons would come out and shape this stone into these millstones, before transporting them to mills to be ground into flour. How the hell anyone managed to shift one of these is beyond me: no wonder there are so many left around. An unusual but pleasant addition to the sweeping moorland stretching before you in every direction.
On your way to Higger Tor, watch out for boggy spots in the basin. You’ll know when the ground starts getting wet and marshy when you start seeing rushes and tussocks on the path: the tall, thick patches of grass synonymous with the moor. When these appear, beware: what looks like firm ground may actually be deceptively marshy, ready to fill unsuspecting trainers with squelchy water. If you can’t walk around, then tread directly on the tough tussocks to keep yourself dry. It’s essentially like The Floor is Made of Lava...but with higher stakes!
When you reach the foot of Higger Tor, make your way up it with some light scrambling and puffing. With impressive views of the Peak District from up here, we took a moment to rest, snack and survey at the top. We looked back across the plain we had traversed, splotched with bog-pools and bristling with the tussocks and rushes. It was a good moment to recite a poem I had written a few months earlier about tussocks (to everyone’s surprise) to which anyone who has crossed a marshy bog can surely relate:
AN ODE TO TUSSOCKS
O tussock, scratchy patch of grass
That rises tall and tickles my arse
Clumpy tuft of wilderness
That helps us travellers come to pass.
You guide me through the mires unscathed
A stepping stone for sturdy boots
A daisy chain of passage made
Thanks to your thick and hardy roots.
You keep my feet from getting wet
And let me reach the very heart
of Hathersage, and better yet
Of England, and this land’s fine art.
A fact of growing up, which does amaze:
The time I seem to spend on the bog these days.
Some people write poetry about clouds, and others about sandy beaches, but when you’ve had as many bootfuls of cold marsh water as I have then you find that inspiration strikes in strange ways!
Once you’re done on Higger Tor, make your way down the southern slope again and make for Carl Wark, which you’ll see arising not too far in the distance. Depending where you choose to climb down, you may be scaling some large rocks here: easy enough in any footwear, and you’ll feel very intrepid. Pick up the path and you’ll find yourself following some old steps down the hill, which have an ancient ritual feel to them. Imagine what kind of happenings and ceremonies have gone down here throughout the ages - as you keep this in mind, follow in their footsteps until you reach Carl Wark.
It is supposed that Carl Wark is an Iron Age hillfort: probably a natural feature that was added to over time. You’ll see this from the high stone wall: you can see how this could have been a defensive addition to prevent an attack on the promontory. Historians theorise that the uses ranged from holy and spiritual, to a defense against the Roman troops of Constantine the Great. My personal reckoning is that the defending tribe probably got a good few shots in throwing rocks off the outcrop at the surrounding Romans before they managed to pile in and shut things down. As you gaze across the moor, you may wish to be thankful that you don’t have to spend your time standing on windy outcrops hoping the Romans will go home and leave you alone.
Once you’re done theorising and soaking up the ancient stony vibes, continue on the path south. Again, watch out for boggy spots as you go. You are looking to meet up with the road, and follow it west (turn right and uphill) to get back to Surprise View and complete your walk. Depending which way you go, you will either cross Burbage Brook (which may be anything from a trickle to a gushing river) or simply cross through a thicket of ferns.
BONUS: As you pass the silver birch woodland again to your right, you may think “Gosh, that looks nice in there. But probably nothing I haven’t already seen today and I really am craving that ice cream now”. Well it turns out there’s a Secret Garden inside: a large rocky outcrop that’s lush, peaceful and also perfect for bouldering. Do check it out.
My favourite bit: Standing on top of a big rock, blowing out the hungover cobwebs in a bracing breeze
Comments