Hidden away in Glen Coe is a ‘lost valley’ known as Coire Gabhail. The name (The Hollow of Bounty) refers to the olden days when the valley was used by members of Clan MacDonald to hide stolen cattle, and eventually hid the MacDonalds themselves during the infamous massacre of Glen Coe in 1692; an event so gruesome that it inspired George R.R. Martin’s Red Wedding in Game of Thrones.
As well as a murky past, this walk has spectacular scenery from start to finish, including a lush wooded valley hidden away in the otherwise mountainous area. Ideal for anyone looking for something exciting without having to climb an entire mountain or two, or simply a rewarding trip that doesn’t take up the whole day. If you’re looking for a half day adventure with thrills and chills (from the history and also wild swimming opportunities) then look no further.
BEFORE YOU GO
Time: 4 hours
Terrain: Some steep scrambling that can be slippy in places, but generally a well worn path. Possible small river crossings. A few chances to get in the water. Boots recommended. Phone signal very limited so don’t rely on it if you need it.
Rest points: The closest shops and pubs are in Glencoe village - bring food and drink with you. Best place to picnic is at the top of the valley.
How to get there: car parking at Three Sisters Viewpoint, which is often busy: you may need to improvise or wait for a space. I’m not sure if the A82 is served by a bus, but you could get public transport to nearby Glencoe village and either get a taxi or chance a hitchhike.
Directions: This route from Walk Highlands is a good one to follow. https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/lostvalley.shtml
As you arrive at the parking point, you will likely have spent some time with your nose pressed to the window of your ride, admiring the breathtaking scenery of the Glen Coe valley. Enjoy stepping out into the bracing Highlands air and soaking it in.
On the south side of the valley and in the direction you will be headed, you will see three prominent ridges known as the Three Sisters: Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh. This grand view of the Three Sisters is regarded as one of the best views in the UK. There might even be a guy in the car park playing a bagpipe just to complete the scene. Take a minute to appreciate your surroundings as you prepare to set off.
Head down into the valley until you reach a bridge across the River Coe.
BONUS - after you descend the metal steps but before you cross the bridge, it is possible to scramble down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. I couldn’t find a path to speak of, but I headed right/west off the path. You will need to be careful, but the urge to go for a magical swim down there overtook us. It was well worth the scramble! Rather than going on the way up, we went on the way back, so we weren’t too far from our car to towel off and warm up.
You will cross the chasm of the River Coe via a bridge built by Royal Navy trainees in 1966. From here you will start your ascent to the valley, and a climb of over 300 metres. Don’t hesitate to stop and grab your breath though, as you will have 360 degree views of some of the UK’s finest scenery - take all the opportunities to do so!
Your route up in between the ridges of Beinn Fhada and Gear Aonach will consist of everything between well worn path to boulder scrabbling: take care not to slip. You will head up through some trees and a deer proof fence: installed to allow the regeneration of woodland, mainly birch, rowan and hazel. Allowing these trees to grow gives an idea what the Highlands would look like without deer and sheep: which you will appreciate as you enter the steep sided, wooded gorge with a beautiful stream and huge boulders. Wind your way up this path: as you do so, consider the ancient mystery of the MacDonald cattle rustlers, which surely is how the hell did they get the cattle up here in the first place?!
Eventually you will reach a ridge, and the Lost Valley of Coire Gabhail will reveal itself to you.
Coire Gabhail (corry gale) means Corrie of the Bounty, or Hollow of the Spoils. A corrie is the name given to a valley formed by glacial erosion, the process that created this valley, as well as Glen Coe. The wide, flat bottom would have latterly been the bed of a glacial lake, framed by the high ridges of Beinn Fhada and Gear Aonach on either side, and at the head of the valley, the Munro peak of Stob Coire Sgreamhach. There is a faint path up there to reach the Bidean nam Bian mountain massif beyond. Unless you have planned well in advance, I advise sticking to exploration of the corrie floor.
Find yourself a nice spot to sit down and refuel: now is the time for a picnic if you brought one. As you stop and appreciate the scenery, reflect on the history associated with this valley:
The MacDonald clan of Glen Coe were notorious in the olden days for cattle rustling (stealing), which back before widespread use of cash as currency, was a lucrative business. Legend has it that the MacDonalds would hide their ill-gotten cattle up in this valley: which is completely hidden from the rest of Glen Coe. That’s why it’s named Coire Gabhail - also translatable as Valley of the Loot. Over time, this made the MacDonalds a small clan, with few friends but powerful enemies. In early 1692, the MacDonald clan were charged with not being quick enough to pledge allegiance to the new monarchs, William and Mary. It is said that they were selected to be made an example of: presumably because of a combination of internal clan politics and a reputation for lawlessness. Two companies of soldiers were sent to Glen Coe, and were given quarter by the MacDonalds (which was common in place of taxes before money was widespread).
Early in the morning of 13 February 1692, these soldiers were ordered to “put all to the sword under seventy” and the massacre began. The killing took place all over the glen as fleeing MacDonalds were pursued from their homes: thirty eight, including the chief, were killed by the guests who had accepted their hospitality. It is estimated that another forty women and children died of exposure after their homes were burned: many of them fled up into this valley, a hiding place for cattle that now served a new purpose for the women and children of the MacDonald clan. Game of Thrones fans will see why this infamous and brutal massacre was one of George R.R. Martin’s inspirations for the Red Wedding.
If you’re still absorbing the atmosphere of the valley, perhaps read this poem by Douglas Alexander Stewart:
Sigh, wind in the pine;
River, weep as you flow;
Terrible things were done
Long, long ago.
In daylight golden and mild
After the night of Glencoe
They found the hand of a child
Lying in the snow.
Lopped by the sword to the ground
Or torn by wolf or fox,
That was the snowdrop they found
Among the granite rocks.
Oh, life is fierce and wild
And the heart of the earth is stone
And the hand of a murdered child
Will not bear thinking on.
Sigh, wind in the pine,
Cover it with snow;
But terrible things were done
Long, long ago.
Remember, not all horror stories happen at Halloween (although this one did happen on the 13th of February). Once you’ve finished contemplating the nature and history of this place, make your way back down the path, the way you came. You will be treated to the north face of the Glen Coe valley, and more superb views all around.
My favourite bit: the lush stream supporting the small but magical woodland, made particularly luscious by the contrast of howling mountains and moorland all around.